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: Defcription of the Ifand of Mycone. 293
panica, non fpinofa. Inft. *Tis my opinion, thefe
two Kinds are but Varieties of the fame Plant.
"Being fure the Bandittt. were gone off, we pre-
pared to pafs over to Stampalia, an land forty
miles from Nanjio, between the Eaft and Eaft-North-
Faft ; but the Wind being againft us, we were
forced to go to Mycone, which we did not reach
till the 22d of Ofober, after putting in at feveral
places. |
The Ifle of Mycone, which ftretches from Eaft to
Weft, is 36 miles about, 30 from Naxia, 40 from
Nicaria, and 18 from the Port of Zize; tho’ the Ca-
nal, which is between Cape Trullo of Mycone and le
Tine, isbut 18 miles broad: that of Mycone at Delos
is no more than three miles from Cape Alogomandra [a]
of Mycone to the neareft point of Delos: for Pliny,
who perhaps counts from one Port to another, makes
it but. 15 miles to this Canal. You fee there the
two fmall Rocks of Pra/onifi [6], which Meffieurs
Spon and Wheeler took to be Iragonifi [c] or Dra-
gonera, another Rock towards the Eaft-South-..
Eaft, and confequently out of the Canal we are
fpeaking of. si |
The Port of Mycone is very open, and lies be-
tween the Weft and Weft-North- Weft; but the
Gulph, which is on one fide the Port, and is 1m-
pervious, is deep enough forthe largeft Ships, which
likewife it fecures from the North Wind by means
of a natural Jettee, form’d by Rocks on a level with
the Waters Surface. You enter this Gulph be-
tween the North and North-North-Weft: the Port
of Ornos is oppofite to the farther end, and looks
between the South and South-South-Eaft. The
' [a] Anoyômaleæ, Park for Hor fes,
[4] Tec, le of Leeks. _
fe] Teclovies, Le of Goats.
U 3 Ifle
294 ÆVovyAGE into the Levant. Let. 6.
Ifle of St. George [a] is at the point of the Gulph on
the right hand: the other Ports of the Ifland are —
Port Palermo [b] and Port St. dune; Port Palermo
isa very large one, but too much expofed to the
North Wind; Port St. Ane is likewife very bleak,
and looks to the South-Eaft.
Mycone produces the beft Sailors of any in the
whole Country ; there are at leaft 500 fea-faring
Men in the Ifland, and above 100 Barks, befides
40 or 50 largeSaicks for the Trade to Turkey and the
Morea: that to Turkey confifts in Hides, efpecially
of Goats [c], which they take in at [7] Szagi near
Smyrna and Scalanova; the Morea Trade at prefent
lies in Wine, which the Myconiots fupply the Vene-
tian Army with, at Napoli di Romania. There are
fome Saicks of Mycone, which carry 7 or 800 Bar-
rels of Wine, each Barrel [e] weighs 150 Pound
French; for the moft part, ‘tis mere colour’d Water,
and the Venetians pay them accordingly: the Greeks
cannot forbear playing their tricks. Mycone [ f]
ufually affords 25 or 30000 Barrels of Wine a year:
the Vine has been very anciently cultivated there. |
M. Wheeler bought upon the fpot a Silver Medal
with Fupiter’s a on one fide, and a Bunch of
Grapes on the other.
The Ifland of Adycone is very dry, and its Moun-
tains of no great heigth; the two moft noted are
called by the name of St. E/ijabh: ones juft by Cape
Trullo, as you enter the Canal of Mycone and of Tine;
the other is at the Extremity of Mycone, over againft
Tragonif. The Name Dimajtos, which [g] Pliny
gives to the higheft Mountain of the Ifland, will
[a] Teoeysornor, Je of St. George.
[5] Tevoguoc, Port to receive all forts of Ships.
[c] Cordouans. [2] Teos. [e] 50 Oques.
[/} Authoritas vino Miconio. Pin. Hif. Nat. hb. 14.
cap. 1. MYKO,
[¢] Hift, Nat. lib. 4. cap. 12.
quadrate
Defeription of the Ifand of Mycone. 295
quadrate with both of them, fince each has a forky
Summit. Ovid [a], who in his Voyage to Pontus
had a nearer View of Mÿycone than Virgil [D], was
in the right of it to fay it was alow Ifland ; whereas
Virgil fays quite the contrary: not but that Humilis
Infula may likewife be taken fora mean, defpicable
Ifland, as Statius [c] calls the Ifland of Seripho.
Strabo reports, that the Poets made Mycone to
be the Burying-place of the Centaurs defeated by
Hercules ; whence the Proverb, [d] Every thing is
in Mycone, of one that pretends in one and the
fame Difcourfe to touch upon all things. Stephens
the Geographer, who copy’d Ssrabo in this place,
as in many others, delivers, that this Ifland took
its Name from one Myconus Son of Ænius ; but
one is as little known as the other: ’tis a common
thing for old Authors to be guilty of this Error.
The Remark of [e] Strabo and[f] Euftathius is
much better warranted, that the Myconiots were
apt to grow bald, fince at this day moft of the In-
_ habitants lofe their Hair at 20 or 25 Years old.
[g] Pliny has another Obfervation, that the Chil-
dren are born without Hair; for all that, the In-
habitants are avery handfom comely People: they
were heretofore reckoned arrant Parafites, and would
be ftill fo, were they to light of Cullies. We read in
Athenzus fome Verfes of Cratinus not much in their
praife, but he excufes them on account of their
Poverty.
[a] Hinc humilem Myconum cretofaque rura Cimoli.
Metamorph. lib. 7.
{4} Quam Deus arcitenens oras & littora circum
Errantem, Mycone celfa Gyaroque revinxit. LEN. 3
{c] Hinc fpretæ Myconos, humilifque Seriphos. Achil. 1.
[21] Ilan dd piay Muxdvev. Rer. Geog. lib. 10,
[e] Moxdviog Paraxeds. Strab. ibid.
[7] Ad Dionyf. verf. 526.
[g] Quippe Myconii carentes pilo gignuntur. Hi. Nat.
Lib, 11. cap. 37.
ÿ te Our |
-296 : A, VoyAGE into the Levant. Let.6.
1 Our Franks call this land Micoul; it yields.e-
nough Barley for the Inhabitants, abundance of Figs,
but few Olives: Water is very fcarce in Summers a
huge Well ferves the whole [a] Town, which isthe
only one of the Ifland,and contains fcarce 3000Souls:
but for one Man, you fee four Women, oftentimes
lying among the Hogs in the open Street ;: Men
ufe the Sea very much... Two Confuls are: named
every year to take care of the publick Affairs., In
1700, the Myconiots paid 5000 Crowns to the Ca-
pitation and Land-Tax: the Ifland was then,.under
the Government of Mezomorto, the Captain-Bafhaw:
in the laft War it was under the obedience of the
Bey of Stanchio, call’d [2] Cafidi, who at this time
has the Command of fome Galliots to fcour the
Archipelago of petty Rovers.
_ Strangers find it pleafant living at Mycone,. pro-
vided they have a good Cook, for the Greeks are
the worft inthe world. Partridges are very cheap
and plentiful, as alfo Quails, Woodcocks, Turtle-
Doves, Rabbits, Wheatears; there are delicious
Grapes, and excellent Figs. ‘They make their Sa-
lads with a kind of [c] Sowthiftle, very whetting
to the Appetite when the Plate is rubbed with Gar-
lick. The Adralida [2] and the Radice [e] are
much in repute there: the firft is a fort of Vipers-
grafs, defcribed in a preceding Letter; the Radice
is prickly Chicory, whofe young Shoots naturally
grow white in the Sand along the Sea-fide. In
time of Lent they make a good Ragou with boil’d
Vroulas; the People here make delicious [ f | Cheefe:
their pickled Quails are execrable; they reduce
fa] Moxevs n wor. Ptol. Geog. lib. 3. cap. 15:
[8] Or Scald-headed.
fc} Sonchus lavis, angufti folii. C. B. Couefto counilhera.
[d] Scorzonera Grzca faxatilis & maritima, foliis varie la-
cimiatis, Coral. Inf. Rei Herb. Adeurnidu.
fe] Cichorium fpmofum, C. B. [/] Pouino.
thefe
à »Defeription of the Ifland of Mycone. 297
thefe Birds in Vinegar to a fort of Pap ; the Na-
tives admire them, becaufe it faves the Expence of
Fire to drefs them. The Fewel ufed here is Un-
der-wood fetch’d from Delos. : |
Mycone was fome years together poffefled by the
Dukes of Naxia, Father Sauger fays, that Fobn
Crifpo [a], the twentieth Duke of the Archipelago,
gave it in Marriage, together with the Ifle of Zia,
to his Daughter Thaddea, Wife to Francis de Som-
merive, who enjoyed it not long; and the Venetians,
being become Matters of Zzzos, found Mycone to
be convenient for them, and fo the Proveditor of
Tinos is to this very day called Proveditor of
Mycone. Barbaroffa the Captain-Bafhaw reduced it
to the Obedience of Solyman II. with almoft all the
Iflands which the Republick had in the Archipelago,
- It muft not be forgot here, that Mycone and Tinos
were conquered in the Reign of the Emperor Henry
by Andrew Gizi, fome years after the taking of
Confiantinople by the French and Venetians. Ferome
Gizi, his Brother, had for his Allotment Skyro and
Scopoli. From this Andrew defcends the Sieur Fa-
nachi Gizi, fo well known to your Lordfhip for his
Services, and for whom you have procured Patents
for Conful of Mycone and of Tinos, his Family has
always behaved it felf honourably ever fince the
Latins became Mafters of the Empire of the Eaft.
Our Conful, who is a very religious Perfon, ‘has
built at Mycone a Chapel to St. Lewis ; and he keeps
in his houfe a Prieft of our Communion to fay Mais,
The Latin Church of the Borough depends on the
Bifhop of Tinos, who has put in a Curate, and gives
him 25 Roman Crowns a year for his Stipend; M.
Gizi*s Chaplain is better provided for: not that the
Bifhop of Ténos is to be blamed, fince the [4] Con-
[a] Hiftory of the Dukes of the Archipelago.
[4] De propaganda fide, {
otégation
298 A VOYAGE into the Levant. Let. 6.
gregation allows no more to the Vicars of the other
Iflands: nay, fome Bifhops allow but 15 Crowns a
year to their Vicars, which they find enough ready
to accept of, the Priefts of the Archipelago being
very eager after thefe Pofts, that they may live ho-
nourably at their homes.
As for Greek Churches, there are fifty in Mycone;
each has its Papas, and almoft all the Inhabitants
are of the Greek Rite: there is but one Turk, and
he the Cadi, who goes the Circuits, Thefe Cadi’s
purchafe a Commiflion of the Grand Cadi of Scio,
and then range the whole Archipelago; caufing no-
tice to be given wherever they pafs, that all fuch
as have any Law-Suits on their hands, bring their
Papers or Witnefles, and they fhall be immediate-
ly and with a moderate Charge difpatch’d. The
Greeks, who are naturally litigious, are fuch Fools
as to come to this Tribunal, inftead of making up
matters amicably before the Adminiftrators and
Papas.
There are many Chapels, and fome Monafteries,
at Mycone. [a] Paleocaftriani is a Nunnery with
three or four Nuns, feated near the middle of the
Ifland about [4] Paleocaftro, an ancient decayed
Fortrefs on a pleafant Hill. The Church of /a fc]
Trinité is in the Circuit of Paleocaftro: that of St.
Marina is not far off; every year they celebrate
(on the 17th of Fuly) a mighty Feftival, where
they dance and drink after their fafhion, that is, all
day and night too. On the fide of Paleocaftro, in
a fine Plain in fight of Port St. une, is the great
Monaftery of [2] Trulliani, poffefled by ten or
twelve He-Caloyers and fome old She-ones: they
[a]. Marcaioxasesavy, the ancient Church of the Caf.
[ô An Doebia axpa ? Ptol. Geog, lib. 3. cap. 15. Moxovos
avTn dirons. Scyl. Peripl.
[c] “Ayia Teiadx, the Holy Trinity.
[7] Tesnnarr, the Dome, or the Cathedral.
have
Defcription of the Ifland of Mycone. 299
have great Poffeffions in the Plain of [a] 4uomeria,
the beft and fruitfulleft part of the Ifland. The
Convent of St. Pantaleon is on this fide Paleo-
caftro, near Port Palermo; but it contains not above
three or four Religious. The forfaken Monafteries
are that of the [4] Virgin, St. George [c], and our
Saviour [4].
Befides the Conful of France, there is one for
England, another for Holland, tho’ no Ship of either
Nation comes thither: but the Greeks fhelter them-
{elves from the Tyranny of Turks, under co-
vert of fuch Patents. The French Ships bound to
Smyrna and Confiantinople pals the Canal of Tinos
and of Mycone, fteering between the North and
North-Eaft: in foul Weather they ufually put in at
Mycone, to get intelligence about the War. The —
ordinary Route of the Exghjh and Dutch is between
Negropont and Macronif. There often arrive at
Mycone French Barks, to lade Corn, Oil, Cotton,
and the like Commodities of the neighbouring
Iflands. :
The Ladies of Mycone would not be difagreeable,
were their Habits but a little lefs ridiculous: and yet
an ordinary Suit fhall coft them 200 Crowns; fome
there are that come to 150 Sequins. *Tis true, the
Ladies for the moft part clothe themfelves but once
for their whole Life; their Hufbands have not the
mortification of feeing them follow the Modes, and
dipping their hands in their Purfe every Change of
the Seafon, Iam going to defcribe the feveral
Parts of their Drefs, which is all over grotefque.
The firft is a fort of [¢] Under-Smicket À it has
wrift-banded Sleeves, and is ufually made of Muf-
lin [f], ora kind of fine Buckram, or Silk fet off
[a] Avouéeix, the Upper Part.
[6] Havayia péoiwa, the Virgin of Mycone.
[c] ‘Agios Teweryses. [4] Eurieus.
Ce] Micopéro. [/ ] Heraokro.
| with
with Gold Lace. or Embroidery: and thus are their
richeft Smickets no better than a penitential Shirt,
their Trimming making a Print on the Skin.
Over this Smicket they wear a large [4] Smock B.
of Cotton or Silk, with Sleeves as large asa Sur-
plice:: this reaches to their Mid-leg, and ferves for
an Under-Petticoat. It is garnifhed with Jace,
er embroider’d with Silk or Thread of Gold and
Silver.
“The third Piece is a fort of (3) Gorget or Sto-
woche? C. covered with Gold or Silver Embroi-
dery ; this they apply to their Neck.
Then they clap on a [c] Corflet D. with two
Wings on the fides, and two Openings to let the
firms: through ; “tis a kind of Bodice, without
Sleeves: *tis embroidered with Gold and Silver,
adorn’d with Pearls; in Winter they wear them
with [7] Sleeves.
This Bodice extends three or four inches over
the [e] Colubi, a kind of Under-Petticoat F. very
thick and full of Plaits, reaching no farther than
the Knees; they faften it before with Ribbands.
The fixth Piece is an [f] Apron H. made of
Muflin or embroidered Silk. Hinibridlery being an
Invention of the Levant, they wear nothing with-
out it: and to fpeak truth; they excel even the
French in that fort of Work, as to Neatnefs; but
their Patterns are not fo well fancy’d.
In Summer they wear [g] Cotton Stockings, and
in Winter red Cloth, trimmed with Gold or Silver
Lace: thefe Stockings are all full of Plaits, for
me wear four or five pair one over another. ‘Their
[a] Yroxcépuocr. [2] Lropaxiney.
[c] Massobedoona, jam is pronounced like B in wulgar Greek,
Beurobedronx Xevcdgn, paeyaesrden.
[2] Mrresopavixa. Eoriwavinsov.
fe} Xoav€sov. Colibi, or Colobi. P&yo x Péran. Chath
and Fuftian, © [7] Heorerodie. [ i. Kaderles.
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… :Defcription of the Ifland of Mycone. 30%
Garters [a] are Ribbands edg’d with Gold and Silver
Lace, faften’d through Loop-holes.
Their Slippers [2] are Velvet ; but the upper part
fo fhort, that they cover nothing but the Toes, which
gives the Ladies an ill Gait in walking. Some a-
mong them have Venetian Shoes, which they tie
with huge laced Ribbands. |
Laftly, their Kerchief [c] is a Veil of Muflin or
Silk, ufually feven or eight foot long, and two
broad, which they twine about their Head and
round their Chin, in a very agreeable manner, and |
which gives them a fprightly Air.
This Ifland produces no extraordinary Plants ;
yet we met with an Iris Tuberofa, folio angulofo.
C. B. Pin. which we lit not of in any other of the
Iflands: I have made a particular Genus of it under
the name of Hermodattylus.
We obferv’d on that Mountain of St. Elijah
which is by Cape Zrullo, that
- Naxia lies between South-South-Eaft: and
ae Outi. |
The lefier’ Delos between South-South-Weft
and South-Weft.
Paros in the fame Line.
The middle of the greater Delos and Cabronifi
to the South- Weft.
Tragonifi to the Eaft-South-Eaft. |
Tragonifi [d] is an ugly Rock three miles about,
one mile from Mycone from Cape to Cape, below
the Mountain of St. Elijah to the Eaft, tho’. you
will find it near twenty miles to go from the Port
of Mycone to that of Tragonifi: at prefent there is
neither He nor She-Goats, which formely it fo a-
bounded with, as to be called the Goat-Ifland. The
[2] Kaesfodees. .. [4], Ketegomamerle.
La [ce]: Bota. #) xevcreCotrc « ‘ |
[4] Teayovnes, Île of Goats. Dragonera, aah
mer 4 » Burghers
302 ÆAVoyaAGE into the Levant, Let. 7,
Burghers of Mycone, efpecially the Monks of Trul-
liant, breed their Cattle there ; but the Shepherds
are obliged to take them up in April, when the
Rain-water begins to fall fhort. ‘The Sheep-coat is
pretty enough, but the two Chapels, built there
fome time fince, have only four Walls.
Stapodia is five miles off Tragonifi; it is a Rock
form’d in fhape of a Saddle, and is covered with
four or five pretty Plants: there is neither Shepherd
nor Sheep, becaufe there is not a drop of frefh Wa-
ter, and it is frequently overflowed by the Sea in
many Places.
TI am, &c.
LE T TER; VIE
To Monfeigneur the Count de Ponchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
Defcription of the Iflands of Delos.
My-Lorp,
HE Greeks to this very day called by the
; Name of [2] Dili two Rocks of the Archipe-
lago ; they are both of them utterly deferted, and
only ferve for a Retreat to Pirates and Robbers:
the [4] largeft was anciently called the Ifle Rhenia,
and the [c] other was known by the name of Delos,
the Center of the famous Cyclades. This latter,
which is not above feven or eight miles in circuit,
[a] Ana. [5] Meycnos AnAos Prvesæ, antiquorum.
F [ce] Anacs, antiquor. Muxpès Anaos, which the Franks call
iles.
2 tho*
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Part of f Greater Delov call it the Island Rhenias,— ae Og ep gc HD DT
2S = FF. FS 9 GnOQvalfor a Sea fight:
20. NA PO
11. buins of Apollos Temple.
PRE of Marble:
x LONS .
~~ Defeription of the Ifland of Delos. 303
tho’ [a] Pliny allows it fifteen, was look’d upon as
. a [à] Sacred Place, from the moment a Report was
fpread, that Lafona was there delivered of Apollo
and Diana.. The Greeks, who were famed for
Wit and Ingenuity before the Romans, were fo at-
tach’d to Delos, fix’d fo many Honours upon it,
and made it fo magnificent, that it became the Ad:
- miration of After-Ages: never was Ifland fo highly
extoll’d; Pindar and Callimachus compos’d Hymns
inits honour. L7yfichton, Son of Cecrops the firft
King of Athens, erected there a Temple to 4-
pollo [ce]: this Temple, which afterwards became
one of the ftatelieft Edifices upon earth, ftood at the
entrance of a mighty City built all with Granate-
ftone and Marble, adorn’d with a Theatre, Piaz-
za’s, a Bafon [d] for the Reprefentation of Sea-
Fights, a Gymnafium, and a prodigious number of
Altars. | |
Judge, my Lord, how impatient we were to fee
a Country fo celebrated by Authors, The Ifland
of Delos, which is full three times as long as ’tis
broad, ftands between two fine Canals, the one
towards Mycone,.and the other towards the Îfle
Rhenia: in that of Mycone, which is Eaft-North-
Faft, are a couple of {curvy Shelves [e], accompa-
ny’d with fome Rocks. The Canal is three miles
over, from Cape Æogomandra in Mycone to the
heareft point of Delos; but they reckon it fix miles
from the Port of Mycone to the little Port of Delos,
the ordinary Landing-place : it is fifteen miles from
_ this little Port to that of St. Nicolo of Tinos. Pliny
was not well acquainted with the diftance between
[a] Hift. Nat. lib. 4. cap. 12.
[2] Strab. Rer, Geog. lib. 1a.
[c] Eufeb. Chron. gr. & lat. p. 76. Cedren. Compend. Hit.
Syncel, Chron,
[2] Toav€wnos. Callim. Hymn. on Delos, ver! 266.
[¢] Teacrovicor, the Iles of Leeks.
Mycone
304 Æ VoyY AGE into the Levant.’ Let. 2
Mycone and Delos; for he determined it fifteen miles:
he is likewife miftaken in that between Delos and .
Naxia, which is forty miles, tho’ he reckons it but
eighteen. As for that between Delos and Nicaria,
he is right in faying it is fifty miles,
The Canal which runs betweën the two Delos’s is
fcarce half a mile broad towards the greater Rema-
tiari [a], a Rock fo called: the oddnefs of its
Name raifed in me a Curiofity to fearch after its E-
tymology ; and tho’ it was a difcovery of no great
importance, yet I cannot help being pleas’d with it.
Rematiari in the vulgar Greek fignifies a Perfon fub-
je& to Fluxions: now as this Rock, being fome-
what flat, is frequently overflowed by the Waters
of the Canal, the Greeks, who area facetious People,
have given it the name of Rematiari; that is to fay,
an Ifland fubject to Rheumatifms, or to be often
overwhelmed with Water. The Ancients held this
Rock in great veneration, and confecrated it to
_ Diana under the name of Hecate: for we read in
Suidas [b], that it was called the Ifland of Hecate,
or P/ammite, from the name of certain Cakes there
offered in facrifice to that Goddefs. |
As this Rock ftands in the narroweft part of the
Canal, it was in all likelihood pitch’d upon by Po-
lycrates, the famous Tyrant of Samos, for extend-
ing that Chain mentioned by Thucydides [c], which
faften’d the Ifland Rbenia to Delos, and is a proof
they confecrated the former to Delian Apollo. It is
alfo probable, that this was the very place where
WNicias [d] crofs'd the Canal to enter into Delos;
nothing can excel the Pompoufnefs of this Entrance.
Nicias being inform'd that the Priefts deputed from
La] “Peparseenc, Rheumatifmo laborans: ‘Pewarifew, aquis -
obruere, pro Pevparifew. : aw 2
[5] sExarns Nacows aeo rs Anne xeiras rs Nnovdrov, &c, Suid.
{<] Thucyd, lib. 3. [2] Plutarch, in Nicia. . ,
rs Pa one
_. Defeription of the Iland of Delos. 395
the Grecian Cities generally landed in a diforderlY
manner, and that they were often enjoin’d to find
the Hymns of Apoilo without giving them time t®
drefs, order’d the Victims, and Prefents, and whol®
Retinue, to put afhore in the Ifland of Rhenia. In
the night they laid a Bridge over the Canal, and
next day, to every body’s great furprize, was feen
this Proceflion marching over the Bridge, cover’d
with rich Tapeftry, with Parapets painted with
Gold and beautify’d with Flowers; all which was
brought from